Two jacks one of which can be the vehicle jack.

The new drop links ( I chose to purchase original parts from Mercedes-Benz) Part number, MA168 320 11 89 (0107060 Rod at just under £16.each inclusive of VAT 10/05

Wheel chocks

1 x 17mm socket & wrench for wheel bolt removal

Wheel bolt lock key.

16mm ring spanners, Flat and Cranked.

1 x 4mm Allen key, long shank

1 x 7mm socket & ratchet or handle

Loc-tite

Torque wrench
If you have these tools available you will find the job quite easy, Not using the correct tools can damage the components and make the job very much harder.


I chose to remove my wheels, In my opinion it made the job easier, it also allowed me to inspect and clean other components. But of course this does mean you will require two jacks.

Having chosen Mercedes-Benz original parts, the cost was more but if they pack up within the year I can confidently, with the receipt take them back and get them replaced. However it was worth noting that these replacement units differed from the original parts fitted on the car; in that the head of the spindle terminated in a 7mm hexagonal, where the original part had a 4mm Allen key way recessed into the neck of the spindle. The modification in this instance is an improvement and makes them easier to fit.

Slackening and removing the old nuts was reasonably difficult, You need to insert the Allen Key into the recess and hold it firmly as well as turn the spanner to movement of which is limited. You may find that you have to insert the shank of the Allen key into a holding device to get the leverage. This is because the spindle of the drop link is not tapered and therefore turns easily as you attempt to undo the nut. You will also note that I have used a cranked ring spanner on the head nuts. This was to overcome the problems of two metal shoulders fouling the spanner. Whilst removing all (4) four nuts it was necessary to prevent them from turning using the Allen key. However the lower nuts were easiest removed with a flat 16mm ring, so Ideally you need both, as neither is suitable for top and bottom nuts if the job is to be made as easy as possible. Bear in mind that you cannot us sockets, as you need to secure the spindle in each case.

It is worth noting that the new MB drop links were not supplied with nuts, albeit all the nuts removed were very serviceable.
Make sure you have a 7mm socket to fit on the hexagonal head of the spindle this preferably needs to be a long reach to allow movement of the ring Spanner.


When it comes to fitting the New units applying a small amount of Loc-tite to the thread of the spindle will ensure the nuts are not going to move. Tightening them, Again I found it necessary to secure the spindle from movement by using in this instance a 7mm long reach socket over which I placed the 16mm spanner, again all four nuts required this treatment. (if you do not secure the spindle, whether undoing of re-fitting the spindle will turn and the nut will never tighten)

This photograph shows the new drop link looking up towards the top of the front suspension unit, foremost in the picture is the anti-roll bar.

Drop link/Rod, located to the underside of the front spring housing 1 and the anti roll bar.2 Both ends are fitted with a ball joint 3 that are subject to wear, easily replaced and not too expensive, if you can do it yourself!

Both ends of the Drop link can be seen in this photo If they are worn or the ball joint rubbers are split your car will almost certainly fail its MOT. Ministry Of Transport Test)

I am reliably informed that one way of checking your drop links is to follow this technique of test.

To quickly test the drop links is to open a front door. Car in natural, hand brake off. Rear wheels choked and on level firm ground. Then rock the car from side to side by pushing up and down on the roof frame of the door opening. Do not open the window and simply push the door's window frame as this will almost certainly cause it to bend. If a loudish clicking noise is heard, it could be coming from the drop link. Now turn the steering wheel to a full lock. Ask someone to apply pressure to the drop link while the other person rocks the car again. If the noise reduces, then the drop link is faulty.
But bearing in mind that to remove and inspect only takes about 40mins I did wonder if it was worth all that effort.
Either way at £30.00 the pair you will do no harm by changing them, after being in service as on my car for 31000.miles that's a good many miles and even more shocks and bumps! With the state of some British roads, there is little wonder ball joints wear and start to rattle.

When it came to actually doing the job and bearing in mind my points made above, this was my procedure:-

Ensure the handbrake is on fully

Block the rear wheels

Position the vehicle jack on the jacking point, front O/S or N/S.

Slacken wheel nuts of the wheel, on the side you are going to work first, bearing in mind that drop links are replaced in pairs.

Raise the vehicle only sufficiently to able to remove the wheel.

Using a second jack , place it under the wishbone( i.e. directly below the suspension)Using a plate, or piece of wood as necessary to protect the underside of the wishbone.

Raise the jack until the drive shaft is horizontal with the car, This action will raise the Ati-roll bar, and drop link bottom fixing point thereby taking pressure off the drop link, both top and bottom.

Slacken and remove the drop link fixing nuts, Top and bottom (observing points made above)Note leaving the drop link ball joints under pressure did not stop the spindles from turning in their housing

The old drop link should fall away from it's fixing points.

Re-fit the new drop link ,ensure the nuts are fully tightened to 60Nm

Gently lower the jack from beneath the wishbone

Re-fit wheel, Torque wheel nuts to 110Nm.

Repeat procedure on the other side of the car

Enter a record of replacements in your service record book (I use a page I have fixed in the back of the book)
Incidentally it is worth saving a couple of the gaiters off the old drop links! If when working on the car you damage a gaiter on a track rod end or wishbone lower ball joint you can then replace it without having to buy a new unit.

Many thanks to Albert (Lofty) for the text and pictures